baba's pierogies, gowanus: review

I can't believe this place is two doors down from the then-decrepit loft I lived in during the mid-eighties with two former Swarthmorians. There was no heat, so some clown plopped a wood-burning stove on the wood floor (there were a few bricks for "fire protection"). There was also a clear glass jar of gasoline that sat near the stove for no reason for several years. That was then. This is now.

The construction workers have discovered this place. I arrived on a Tuesday before noon and was stuck behind a glass-and-windows guy ordering hundreds of pierogies for his crew. I opted for a grilled kielbasa with saurkraut and a small order the bacon/cheese/potato pierogies (fried). There are several kinds of pierogies (classic potato, mac and cheese, etc) and you can get them boiled (served with butter and chives) or fried (served with sour cream). There are sides you can order with the pierogies. There are also salads, sandwiches, and dessert pierogies. Wine and beer TK.

The kielbasa was very good and the saurkraut was excellent. The bread served with it was not interesting and a little dry. This place is one block away from Runner & Stone, a restaurant that makes some of the best bread in the world. They need to have Runnner & Stone create a custom Czech (Slovak?) roll for them. The pierogies were excellent. They are fresh and made to order. This takes time. They were not gummy, but light and fresh. Though fried, they were not oily or greasy. I'm looking forward to trying the boiled. I would definitely get two small orders of pierogies (you get 5) and try two different kinds, one boiled, one fried. A large order (you get 9) would be better for sharing.

Tables and benches are made from the floor of a recycled bowling alley. They are attractive. Forks, knives, plates, etc. are compostable.

Grade: B+

295 3rd Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215 (718) 222-0777

www.babasbk.com