The new space is gorgeous, well thought-out, and in a spectacular location: right next door to Gramercy Tavern. It's a sleek black and steel and glass space with one long bar when you come in (drinks), a dining room in the back, and another bar facing a gleaming stainless-steel chicken kitchen as you head back to the front.
The maître d' hails from Mougins, where his father had a restaurant one block from Roger Vergé's Moulin. He was warm and smooth and professional. The wine guy on the floor was a nice guy called Lou, originally from Miami, who was friendly and not smarmy: refreshing.
At lunch, they offer a "plat du jour" and also a tasting menu. I opted for the tasting menu and got that and then some...
First course was a chicken velouté. (You'll figure out eventually that this is an all-poultry shrine.) A bowl with fresh sliced mushrooms and tiny croutons appears with a small pitcher of what looks like light chicken gravy. The soup is poured over the mushrooms. It's a heavenly, rich, chickeny velvety velouté.
The second course was a cheese and chicken soufflé. It was perfectly cooked, just enough crustiness and moistness. It was cheesy with bits of chicken inside. A great idea. It comes with—you guessed it—a small pitcher of chicken gravy.
Next, as an extra, I was brought a pintade farcie, a guinea hen stuffed with a duxelles of pig's feet. It was beautifully semi-deboned, perfectly cooked, and the stuffing was wonderful. It came with a gorgeous bowl of steamed vegetables: carrots, cauliflower, green beans, turnips, etc.
The classic quarter chicken that came next was actually more of a trimmed and semi-deboned half chicken, perfectly roasted, with crispy skin, juicy flesh, and tasty gravy. It came with a truly fresh mesclun salad with vinagary vinaigrette. I'm very picky about salad and this made the grade.
The next course was not poultry; it was a spectacular île flottante with pink pralines submerged in the crème anglaise. These pink pralines (sugar coated almonds) are almost impossible to find in the US. I'm sure they're house made. It's one of those candies chefs eat in their childhood and never forget. The last ones I had were at Alain Chapel who had a recipe for a tart made from these pink pralines. They are sickeningly sweet and delicious. It's one of the perfect foods.
Wines by the glass were very good, despite last-minute liquor license nightmares. The wine director, who looks about 20, comes from Westermann's restaurants in France. You can recognize him by his untucked shirt (see photo of wine being unloaded, below).
Chef Westermann was in attendance and did a regal job of touring the room and greeting guests (that included Bill Buford, author of Heat, a great food memoir). I reminisced with Westermann a little about Alain Chapel and wished him well. Coincidentally, I had chatted on Facebook recently with Bill Buford about my time at Alain Chapel...
Le Coq Rico
30 East 20th Street
212.267.7426.
Grade: A+
No comments:
Post a Comment