Sunday, March 20, 2016

momofuku nishi: review

Momofuku Nishi was going to be another Fuku chicken sandwich place, but David Chang decided to experiment with pasta and some other new concepts. I reserved online, as I have many times for Noodle Bar fried chicken. I nabbed a 10:30 table for four on Saturday night.

Though they could not find our reservation, they set us up at a communal table. The space is a lot like the Noodle Bar and a little like Ssäm Bar. Communal tables, some higher tables with stools, stainless steel kitchen in the back, glass storefront (very little signage).

My son had a beef crudo appetizer. I tried it: it was like very rare meat with chives. He loved it. We also tried the romaine salad which was very good and resembled a caesar salad.

We had two orders of the ceci e pepe, Chang's take on caccio e pepe making use of fermented chickpeas. It's delicious, and the fresh pasta is absolutely perfect. I'll take the flavors of Maialino's traditional version over this one, but it's interesting.

My other son had the chicken and dumplings which was a massively flavorful chicken soup. We all loved it. I had the clams lisboa, which was excellent. The clams were sensational and the thin noodles in brown sauce a very interesting new counterpoint (it's usually a very white sauce).

The desserts were both very interesting: a panna cotta with deep flavors and a bundt cake (delicious) with very sour yogurt accompaniment.

The prices were steep, but it all worked out in the end because there is no tipping. The service was somewhat haughty and pretentious, but I'm going to chalk it up to it being late Saturday night.

Momofuku Nishi

232 Eight Avenue

646-518-1919

Grade: B–







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