la gamelle: review

This is a new French bistrot by the guy who owns Motorino: Mathieu Palombino. The décor is reminiscent of Pastis and Balthazar. The host was efficient and friendly and our waiter was very fast, if a little rushed.

Interesting crowd: new restaurants are not in the Guide du Routard yet.

The chèvre salad was good; frisée salad (not my favorite) with nice warm goat cheese. The foie gras terrine was sweet and complex and the bread was a first class extremely crusty dark brown baguette (note to self: ask them who bakes it next time).

The frites part of the steak frites were fresh, hot, and tasty though the steak, even with maître d' butter and béarnaise sauce, was no match for the steak at Balthazar and Cherche Midi. It was cooked perfectly, but just wasn't a great cut. Onion soup was pretty good, though the broth could have been more intense. The one at Lafayette, with chunks of beef in it, was much better.

Kir Royale made a nice appetizer and the wines by the glass were good, especially my Cahors. The tiny round glasses were somewhat absurd: they're the ones you find in low-class café's in Paris. Quite a few errors in the (French) menu, some of them pretty serious.

We had no room for dessert. Blame the bread.

Grade: B+

www.lagamellenyc.com

241 Bowery (take the B to Broadway Lafayette or the 6 to Spring Street)

(212) 388-0052