Opening day for Fuku, David Chang's spicy fried chicken thigh sandwich joint. A long line had formed by 11:30 in anticipation of the first sandwiches. Bottles of cold water were distributed free to the people in line (free beer was subsequently handed out inside to people waiting for food).
The sandwich is crispy, hot, spicy, chewy, juicy. The bun is forgettable, but it's there just as a way to hold the chicken. It's a very large, deep-fried boneless thigh that has been steeped in habanero pepper and buttermilk then deep fried. The bun is slathered with butter flavored with fermented chickpeas; pickles lie underneath. The french fries are thick and suitably salty but a little mealy: they need work.
Full bar: gin and tonics, tecate beer, shots.
Atmosphere is fun; service is cheerful and professional; the space is comfortable enough and there were enough seats (somehow), despite the long line.
The sandwich is a real bargain at $8. I'd get a sandwich and a salad or two sandwiches and skip the fries.
Grade: B+
Fuku
163 first avenue @11th Street in Manhattan
momofuku.com
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