le rivage: review

Despite its unhip location on Restaurant Row in the theater district, this authentic family-run French restaurant has a lot of charm. Mom greets you at the door. Son is in the kitchen. They also have a killer burger...but I'm getting ahead of myself.

Appetizers of romaine salad and onion soup were small but fresh and house-made. The $18 lunch special is a steal: appetizer, main course and dessert are included. Wine by the glass was not so great: you get to pick a region and they fill you glass (probably) from some bulk source. We tried "Burgundy" and "Bordeaux." I guess this is their moneymaker, because the $18 lunch is a steal. The boeuf bourguignon main course was nicely cooked, dark and tender. But the Onion Soup burger was the star. Served on a large, grilled English muffin, it had carmelized onion, bechamel, and melted Gruyère (I think). It was spectacular though hard to eat. I had to resort to knife and fork. Dessert, an überfresh cream puff, was sensational in a tiny, French way. The apricot tart was no slouch either.

The Eastern European waitress was stern and brusque in an almost French manner.

Grade: A-

Le Rivage

340 W 46th Street

212-765-7374